Skip to main content

Leuchtfeuer/Funkfeuer dio (part 3 - assembly of the generator)

This next update has been long overdue.
Holiday, and especially PC troubles and other niggles have kept me from updating my blog and hampered my building progress quite.
Nevertheless I have been doing some small stuff which I'd like to show in this update.

Continuing where I left off last time, I'll start this update with a few images of the first parts I've glued together (with 2-part epoxy glue).
I used some clamps to keep the parts together while the glue set.

After the glue on the parts of the field generator had set, I noticed that the sidewalls seemed slightly deformed (bent inwards). Probably a result of the clamping of the parts when the glue was curing.
I placed a styrene tube between the sidewalls to return them to the correct shape.

I continued by glueing the side panel shut.
Just one final look at all the nice detail I'll be hiding from the viewing public and than the panel goes on. For this job I used Zap Thin CA.
Only thing I need to do now is glue on a new hinge as one wasn't present on my casting.

I also, finally, straightened the frame of the trailer.
It looks a lot better now. The only part of the frame that remains stubborn is the section with the handle for lifting it on and off the towbar. It's better than before, but it still isn't straight.
After some consideration I realized that I wouldn't get the kit part to conform, so I decided to remove the section with the handle completely and to rebuild it from sheet with possibly some of the salvaged resin parts (like the handle and rail).

Using the frame and the original section as a template I made a new piece from 0.25 mm styrene sheet.
It took a few tries, but finally I got it right.
Next up is adding the handle and rail.

In the meantime I've separated and cleaned more items from their casting blocks in preparation for assembly.
Among them are the wheels.
The kit contains three of them. One spare wheel and two that will be fitted to the trailer.
Some sections of the wheels are very thin. I just hope that this won't cause me any troubles come painting time.
Cleaning up took some time as there was quite an amount of flash present on the holes in the rim.
There's also a small gap in the rim of each wheel. I don't know the purpose of this gap as there is no mention of it in the instructions. The boxart shows the wheels with the same gap, so it's not limited to my kit only.
A quick search on the internet turned up nothing. I'll look into it a bit further, but I'll probably end up closing the gaps.
Last thing I did on the wheels (for now) was restoring the tread pattern where the casting block was located. I used a micro chisel for this job. Nothing too fancy, but it looks better now.

That's it for this update.


Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany. The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th. Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs. The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high. During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques. I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques. For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting. It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers. Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le M

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 17)

The interior has finally been finished. Not without a few hiccups. I really wonder who decided on the building order... At the end of the instructions you're asked to mount the rear ARB. This sits on top of the rollcage and connects to the rear upper suspension arms. For some reason though Revell has you attach the fuel cell/oil cooling ducts (at least I think they are) in step 11. And in the final step (19, for the interior that is) you're required to glue the rear ARB in place. To get this in place you must twist and turn the ARB part in between the cooling ducts and the roll cage. A bit fiddly, but it can be done. It could have been done a lot easier though. A good lesson to never trust the building instructions, although in the end all came good. With all the fiddling and fumbling around, paint has chipped off in several places due to the handling and/or the glue. So before closing everything up I will have to wield the airbrush for a final time and respray a few det

Citroën Xsara WRC - Francois Duval, ADAC Rallye Deutschland 2007 (part 5)

As promised in the previous part in this update I'll show what I changed on the roll cage. The roll cage as included in the kit is far from complete. When looking at on-board footage and reference images found on the internet the roll cage needs some extra tubing added.  Over the years the roll cage of the Xsara WRC has had several variants as I've noticed studying my reference images. Which isn't that strange as the crash test and safety regulations have changed over the years.  The reference images I have of the specific chassis (#28) which Duval raced during the 2007 ADAC Rallye Deutschland are sadly inconclusive about which version of the roll cage was fitted. Which means that the adaptations I made are at best a good "guesstimate"... As long as it looks and feels right, it is right I guess... I used Evergreen styrene rod of 1.6 mm in diameter for the added sections for the rollcage.  The added sections are highlighted in the images below. Another section I&#