Skip to main content

Citroën Xsara WRC - Francois Duval, ADAC Rallye Deutschland 2007 (part 5)

As promised in the previous part in this update I'll show what I changed on the roll cage.

The roll cage as included in the kit is far from complete. When looking at on-board footage and reference images found on the internet the roll cage needs some extra tubing added. 

Over the years the roll cage of the Xsara WRC has had several variants as I've noticed studying my reference images. Which isn't that strange as the crash test and safety regulations have changed over the years. 

The reference images I have of the specific chassis (#28) which Duval raced during the 2007 ADAC Rallye Deutschland are sadly inconclusive about which version of the roll cage was fitted. Which means that the adaptations I made are at best a good "guesstimate"... As long as it looks and feels right, it is right I guess...

I used Evergreen styrene rod of 1.6 mm in diameter for the added sections for the rollcage. 
The added sections are highlighted in the images below.

Another section I've been working on was the rear bumper. The joint between the body and bumper parts isn't razor sharp. There were a few dents and deformations leading to a rough joint with several (small) gaps.
 
 
I decided to try and fill the gaps with pieces of styrene strip. After the glue had set I tried to get the joint area as straight as possible. Which proved rather problematic as there are some protruding studs for alignment on the body.
As the bumper appeared a bit too wide near the ends I used some pins to make fitting and gluing the rear bumper to the body an easier process. 
 
 
Initially everything looks reasonably okay. Now let's wait and see how everything looks under a layer of primer.

Next I took to the intake opening in the front bumper. I already removed most of the solid plastic of the main opening. But after studying the reference images I concluded that I needed to remove the two remaining sections either side of the opening too.
 
 
While I was at it, I also removed the plastic above the intake behind the Citroën logo.
For all the removed sections I have made blanking plates which will be painted flat black to give a sense of depth and to ease the painting (at least, that's the theory).
 
 
With the opening up of the holes, the work on the body was nearly finished.
Before committing to primer I wanted to add the towing eyes to the car. The moulded stumps passing for towing eyes were removed and replaced with PE versions.
This proved easier said than done. As I needed to make a small slit in the body to fit the towing eye.
After determining the position I first drilled a few holes with a 0.4 mm drill bit. After that I connected the holes to make a slit.
 
 
To aid the positioning of the towing eye on the rear I used copies of the kit decals and reference images. The front one was a bit easier to position luckily. I had to cut a piece of the PE part though, as the towing eye sits rather deep into the front bumper (as seen in reference images).


Now the body was ready for primer.
First I washed the parts in soapy water to get rid of all the sanding dust and grease and so on.
 
After a first coat of primer this is how the parts look.
 


 
As can be seen, the primer highlights perfectly the areas needing some additional work (and there are quite a few of them). Apart from that it appears that I need to thin the primer a bit, as the coat is very rough, which didn't happen when priming the Aston Martin several months back (using the same primer).

How this additional work will turn out I will show you in the next update. Until then.

Previous part - Next part

Comments

  1. Thanks for these updates. I’m looking at (eventually) taking on Duval’s 2005 Rally Australia winning Citroën Xsara WRC, so I’m learning a lot about what to expect here!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Trevor.
      Thanks for you reaction. I'm glad you like my build reports and hope they will offer you some tips when you start your build.
      This is definitely not a Tamiya kit. But it can be made to look half decent I think. It just needs some TLC and good planning.

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany. The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th. Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs. The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high. During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques. I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques. For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting. It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers. Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le M

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 17)

The interior has finally been finished. Not without a few hiccups. I really wonder who decided on the building order... At the end of the instructions you're asked to mount the rear ARB. This sits on top of the rollcage and connects to the rear upper suspension arms. For some reason though Revell has you attach the fuel cell/oil cooling ducts (at least I think they are) in step 11. And in the final step (19, for the interior that is) you're required to glue the rear ARB in place. To get this in place you must twist and turn the ARB part in between the cooling ducts and the roll cage. A bit fiddly, but it can be done. It could have been done a lot easier though. A good lesson to never trust the building instructions, although in the end all came good. With all the fiddling and fumbling around, paint has chipped off in several places due to the handling and/or the glue. So before closing everything up I will have to wield the airbrush for a final time and respray a few det

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 2)

In the previous post I already mentioned that the moulds had seen better days as this is quite an old kit (original moulds seem to be from 2000/2001). A direct result of the age of the moulds is the fact that the kit is based on the early version of the C5-R, more precisely on chassis no.'s C5R-001 to C5R-004. The version of the car that can be build from this kit is the Le Mans 2003 version, being either chassis no. C5R-008 or C5R-009. I found a lot of useful information on the C5-R on the this site. I tried to highlight some (but not all) differences between the different versions of the C5-R below. As can be seen are there quite a few challenges ahead if you want to build your Corvette as it raced at the 2003 Le Mans event. I will try to rectify the most obvious differences, but won't be taking on all of them. My original list of modifications was looking like this: close the naca ducts (2). removing the louvres of the radiator outlet (3). increasing the ra