Skip to main content

Ferrari F430 (part 10)

After the best part of an evening of work I finally seemed to have get rid of the various paintdots littering the body of the Ferrari.
On some places I sanded through the paint and primer layers until the bare plastic was visible again.



Because of the dark and slightly flat colour I'm using I didn't reprime and just sprayed the color on.
Things went very smooth.
Only a few spots that needed some attention. A spec of dust got trapped in the paint on the rear of the body and I hit the bonnet a bit hard with the airbrush which means that a few runners need to be sanded back a bit.
Nothing too serious though.

After sanding the aforementioned spots and giving the body another coat of black I declare the body for ready. At least regarding the painting stage.



Now only a few details remained on the body. Apart from applying the few decals I also needed to paint the third brake light and the reflectors present at the rear of the car.
For the third brake light and the reflectors I decided to use Bare Metal Foil (chrome).
It's the first time for me using BMF, but I must say it went perfectly. The foil conformed itself easily to the required shape and I had no trouble cutting the foil to size with a (nearly) new #11 blade.
The paint went on without too much hassle (although I can't seem to get to grips with this clear paint) and looks convincing enough.



The only thing left now was applying the clear coat.
But before doing this I needed to mask the vents next to the rear window as they need to stay sg black. For this I used regular Tamiya masking tape cut to size using a scalpel blade.

Once again I used Alclad Aqua Gloss for the clear coat.
Trying to keep to the instructions I tried to lay down two medium coats on the body.
I'm afraid the second coat was a bit heavy and some pooling is evident, particularly on the driver's door.
The coat seems to have gone down all right, although the shine isn't quite what I expected. Although, after using the same clear on the Corvette, I knew what I was in for.
At least the coat went down better than the one I gave the Corvette.
Sadly a few specs of dust were trapped in the second coat. I hope I'll be able to get these out with a bit of compound.





Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany. The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th. Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs. The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high. During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques. I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques. For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting. It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers. Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le M

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 17)

The interior has finally been finished. Not without a few hiccups. I really wonder who decided on the building order... At the end of the instructions you're asked to mount the rear ARB. This sits on top of the rollcage and connects to the rear upper suspension arms. For some reason though Revell has you attach the fuel cell/oil cooling ducts (at least I think they are) in step 11. And in the final step (19, for the interior that is) you're required to glue the rear ARB in place. To get this in place you must twist and turn the ARB part in between the cooling ducts and the roll cage. A bit fiddly, but it can be done. It could have been done a lot easier though. A good lesson to never trust the building instructions, although in the end all came good. With all the fiddling and fumbling around, paint has chipped off in several places due to the handling and/or the glue. So before closing everything up I will have to wield the airbrush for a final time and respray a few det

Citroën Xsara WRC - Francois Duval, ADAC Rallye Deutschland 2007 (part 5)

As promised in the previous part in this update I'll show what I changed on the roll cage. The roll cage as included in the kit is far from complete. When looking at on-board footage and reference images found on the internet the roll cage needs some extra tubing added.  Over the years the roll cage of the Xsara WRC has had several variants as I've noticed studying my reference images. Which isn't that strange as the crash test and safety regulations have changed over the years.  The reference images I have of the specific chassis (#28) which Duval raced during the 2007 ADAC Rallye Deutschland are sadly inconclusive about which version of the roll cage was fitted. Which means that the adaptations I made are at best a good "guesstimate"... As long as it looks and feels right, it is right I guess... I used Evergreen styrene rod of 1.6 mm in diameter for the added sections for the rollcage.  The added sections are highlighted in the images below. Another section I&#