Skip to main content

Peugeot 307 WRC "Pirelli", Tour de Corse 2006 (part 8)

Clear !
It was about time that this car would get a layer of clear on.
But before I could do that, I had to touch up a few spots with "Pirelli red". When I applied the decals I made some minor mistakes in positioning them. So a few spots needed some extra attention.
Although I have about 6 or 7 shades of red in my paint collection, the right one wasn't there. So I had to mix the correct shade of red.
That took some time, but I in the end I managed to find a shade which looked good enough.

After the spots had been touched up, I let the paint dry for some more days. After that, it was time for the clear.
I used the same 2K clear I used on the Ferrari F430. Thanks to my new fan (higher capacity) there were considerably less fumes inside the cabin and the room.
After I cleared the car I put a cover in front of the airbrush cabin (leaving only a small opening for the air) to prevent dust from settling on the model during drying of the clear.
This, the cover, and the more powerfull fan really helped in preventing dust from falling onto the drying clear.
The results of the clearing can be seen below.

In the pictures it seems like there is a very thick layer of clear on the model. But in reality, it isn't as pronounced. And apart from that, I've noticed that the clear shrinks slightly as time passes. The pictures above have been taken only a few days after the clearing process.

In those pictures, you can also see that I have painted the window trims on the car.
And if you look closely you can also see that I have to do it again. Especially the lines below the windows aren't the tidiest. I think that's a result of the way I masked the window trim.
I put masking tape over the window trim, and using a new and sharp #11 blade in my hobby knife I cut the masking tape along the window trim. But the line along which I had to cut the tape wasn't very clear everywhere. So that's why it's a bit of a jagged edge at the bottom of the windows.
I'll be masking the window trim again shortly. But this time I'm going to slice the Tamiya masking tape into very narrow strips. The advantage is that they're still flexible enough to be bend along complex curves. Once these small strips are on, I'll mask off the rest of the car and proceed with the painting.

Work on the chassis
I've also been working on the chassis of the car.
I was about to put it together. But during a final dryfit, I noticed that the top side of the chassis was still partly visible because the wheel wells don't fit up to the body shell.
That's why I decided to paint part of the top side of the chassis, as can be seen in the first picture below.
Otherwise, assembly of the wheel wells and suspension was pretty straightforward. With the crews that Tamiya provided, the wheel wells are screwed to the floor plate.

Only part that I have to take care of now, to finish the chassis, is the exhaust-driveshaft section. At least, that is what the lump of plastic has to depict...

Other work
Some small other things I've been working on are listed below.
First up is the dashboard. As I plan to build the cars with the windows rolled down, I decided that the dashboard might use a bit of extra attention.
On my reference pictures there's a cable running from the steering wheel to the dashboard. So I wound a small piece of insulated wire around a plastic rod to create the cable shown below.

Apart from that I've also been working on the air intake. On the real car the word "Bozian" is painted on the grille of the air intake. Renaissance has included a Bozian decal in their decal set. But as I've used a different kind of mesh for the grille, the decal could not be used.
That's why I decided to make a template and paint the letters on the grille.
It took me several attempts to get the size of the letters correct, but in the end it turned out great.

Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany.

The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th.

Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs.

The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high.

During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques.
I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques.

For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting.

It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers.
Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le Mans pit stop on …

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 2)

In the previous post I already mentioned that the moulds had seen better days as this is quite an old kit (original moulds seem to be from 2000/2001).
A direct result of the age of the moulds is the fact that the kit is based on the early version of the C5-R, more precisely on chassis no.'s C5R-001 to C5R-004.

The version of the car that can be build from this kit is the Le Mans 2003 version, being either chassis no. C5R-008 or C5R-009.

I found a lot of useful information on the C5-R on the this site.

I tried to highlight some (but not all) differences between the different versions of the C5-R below.

As can be seen are there quite a few challenges ahead if you want to build your Corvette as it raced at the 2003 Le Mans event.
I will try to rectify the most obvious differences, but won't be taking on all of them.
My original list of modifications was looking like this:
close the naca ducts (2).removing the louvres of the radiator outlet (3).increasing the radiator outlet open…

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 17)

The interior has finally been finished.
Not without a few hiccups. I really wonder who decided on the building order... At the end of the instructions you're asked to mount the rear ARB. This sits on top of the rollcage and connects to the rear upper suspension arms.
For some reason though Revell has you attach the fuel cell/oil cooling ducts (at least I think they are) in step 11. And in the final step (19, for the interior that is) you're required to glue the rear ARB in place. To get this in place you must twist and turn the ARB part in between the cooling ducts and the roll cage. A bit fiddly, but it can be done.
It could have been done a lot easier though. A good lesson to never trust the building instructions, although in the end all came good.

With all the fiddling and fumbling around, paint has chipped off in several places due to the handling and/or the glue.
So before closing everything up I will have to wield the airbrush for a final time and respray a few details …