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Benetton Ford B190B, F1 season 1991 (part 2)

Preparations
After so much time, there is still not a single part of this kit that has been painted.
First job has been to eliminate the hardly visible mould lines and deepen the panel lines (orange arrows in images below).
Apart from that, I also had to remove the incredible convenient borders that were on the monocoque to mark the borders of the different colors. Sadly those borders only apply for the 1990 livery of the car, so could not be used for this version.
Removing those lines wasn't much work, but it had to been done nonetheless.

However most of the work has gone into filling all the sink marks on the various parts. The parts shown below are only a selection...

As you can see in the images above, I only bothered to fill the sink marks that are visible once the model is fully assembled. Lazy me, huh...

Apart from all the filling and sanding I also managed to do some fun work (well, at least that's how I see it).
As this kit is from Hasegawa, the colours indicated in the instructions are from Hasegawa too. But as they're not very easy to come by in the Netherlands, I decided to use colours that are freely available to me.
The green colour used was relatively simple, as it is the same colour that Tamiya has indicated in their instructions for the Benetton B188 car.
The yellow was also simple. I'll be using Camel Yellow from Tamiya (spraycan), as this car was Camel sponsored and therefore it is logical to assume that the yellow colour should be Camel Yellow.
The blue was a bit more difficult. In the various colour charts I've found on the internet, I couldn't find an alternative for the Hasegawa colour indicated. So I started mixing some colours myself.
With the help of some reference pictures I've decided that the blue should be ultramarine blue (36151) from the Revell Aqua Color series.

Funny by the way: I have two jars of X4 blue from Tamiya. Both gloss paints, but as can be seen from the samples above, quite different from each other (and yes I did stir the paint thoroughly before painting).

A potential problem
While testfitting the various parts I encountered a potential problem.
The fitment of the rear bodywork is not perfect as can be seen in the pictures below. The walls of the rear bodywork face slightly inward so there is a small gap between the front and rear part of the bodywork (see arrows).

While the fitment on the left picture might seem not so bad, on the right picture it is quite a gap.
There are several solutions to the problem. I can glue the rear bodywork to the undertray. This would probably give the best fitment, but than the engine can not be seen anymore, which would be a bit of a shame as it will be quite nice looking (I suspect).
On the other hand, once the pictures are taken, the rear bodywork will probably never been taken off anymore, so why bother ?
Another solution is bending the vertical walls a bit to the outside while applying heat (like from a hairdryer). I have used this technique a few times with success. But not on a symmetrical object, so getting everything looking right might be a bit of a challenge.
The most likely solution I will try (first) is glueing small strips of sheet styrene to the front bodywork (the inside of the sidepods, indicated in the left picture below) which will function as a sort of guide for the rear bodywork. Because I do like the idea of being able to remove the bodywork to show the engine.
For some reason Hasegawa has provided some holes in the undertray where nothing is mounted (right picture below). Which is rather odd. I first thought that mounting pins from the rear bodywork should fit in those holes, but the rear bodywork doesn't have any mounting pins... It might be an option to make some pins of my own, to get the rear bodywork to fit to the undertray.
If this first idea doesn't work, I will try adding mounting pins instead.

More to follow in the next update.

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The drama with the tires finally seems to have come to an end.
My suspicion that the aggressive solvent-based clearcoat triggered some sort of reaction with either the water-based clearcoat and or the material of the tires appears to be true.
My options were rather limited, so I decided to spray a new water-based clearcoat over the tires, hoping to cover the previous layer of clear and stop the reaction.
For 3 of the 4 tires one layer of clear was enough.
The rear tire with the most problems received 2 layers and that seems to do the trick. Even after more than a week of drying the clear stays flat.


The clearcoat I used was my own Revell Aqua Color mix as used previously. But this time thinned with it's dedicated thinner and applied by airbrush.
Although the image above does little to hide the imperfections I'm happy I finally am able to finish this chapter so I can divert my attention again towards the rest of the kit.

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