Skip to main content

Jaguar Mk. II Saloon "Inspector Morse" (part 9)

Spick and span
When looking through the pictures of this project, I noticed that there had been no work done on this project since March. So it was about time to do something.
As can been seen in the previous update, there seems not that much work left to finish this build.
But looks are deceiving. Because the layer of clear that has been put in this car has quite some orange peel to it, so I had to sand it all out. This process took me already a few hours, and I'm not finished yet.
As with the Peugeot 307 WRC, I used MicroMesh polishing clothes in the roughness 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 to sand out all the orange peel.
To protect the most delicate parts, where the expected layer of clear is thin, I masked them with masking tape before I started the sanding process.
But sadly, all these precautions couldn't prevent me from slightly damaging the paint layer. Because when I tried to clear the panel lines of the trunk from the sanding residue (with a wooden toothpick) I somehow managed to remove some tiny chips of paint.

After completely sanding the car, the paint looks rather smooth.
All that is left to do now, is start polishing with the Tamiya polishing compound to hopefully get the same shine as I got on the Peugeot...

The hood of the car has already been polished and is looking very fine indeed. And I have good hope that the rest of the car will become just as shiny.
But that will be for the next update.

Apart from the sanding I've also been working on the mirrors.
Sadly they didn't turn out as well as I expected, so they need a little bit more work.
I had already painted the mirrors black before I could apply the Alclad II chrome finish. But after applying the chrome finish, several dents and tiny holes are still visible which need to be smoothed first.

More to follow in the next update.

Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany.

The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th.

Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs.

The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high.

During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques.
I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques.

For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting.

It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers.
Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le Mans pit stop on …

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 2)

In the previous post I already mentioned that the moulds had seen better days as this is quite an old kit (original moulds seem to be from 2000/2001).
A direct result of the age of the moulds is the fact that the kit is based on the early version of the C5-R, more precisely on chassis no.'s C5R-001 to C5R-004.

The version of the car that can be build from this kit is the Le Mans 2003 version, being either chassis no. C5R-008 or C5R-009.

I found a lot of useful information on the C5-R on the this site.

I tried to highlight some (but not all) differences between the different versions of the C5-R below.

As can be seen are there quite a few challenges ahead if you want to build your Corvette as it raced at the 2003 Le Mans event.
I will try to rectify the most obvious differences, but won't be taking on all of them.
My original list of modifications was looking like this:
close the naca ducts (2).removing the louvres of the radiator outlet (3).increasing the radiator outlet open…

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 9)

Getting there
The drama with the tires finally seems to have come to an end.
My suspicion that the aggressive solvent-based clearcoat triggered some sort of reaction with either the water-based clearcoat and or the material of the tires appears to be true.
My options were rather limited, so I decided to spray a new water-based clearcoat over the tires, hoping to cover the previous layer of clear and stop the reaction.
For 3 of the 4 tires one layer of clear was enough.
The rear tire with the most problems received 2 layers and that seems to do the trick. Even after more than a week of drying the clear stays flat.


The clearcoat I used was my own Revell Aqua Color mix as used previously. But this time thinned with it's dedicated thinner and applied by airbrush.
Although the image above does little to hide the imperfections I'm happy I finally am able to finish this chapter so I can divert my attention again towards the rest of the kit.

Work has finally continued on the body.
S…