Skip to main content

Leuchtfeuer/Funkfeuer dio (part 2 - the start)

As mentioned in the previous post for this project I will start with the Heavy Type A field generator kit from Plus Model.
This kit marks several "firsts" for me:
  • Building in 1/35
  • Full resin kit.
  • Flat paint schemes 
Let's see what's in the box:
The various parts are well packaged in the small cardboard box.
There are 4 bags with grey resin parts and there is one bag with a decal sheet and a small fret of PE parts.
The manual has a parts list to start with and continues with the building instructions spread over 20 steps.

What is immediately apparent is that although this is a small kit, it is very complete and has quite a high parts count with 53 resin parts and some 38 PE parts.

Upon first inspection the parts look well cast with little to no obvious defects.
There is some slight flash along some of the parts, but nothing too serious.

The kit can be made with one side panel open (or closed) and the back panel open or closed.
Looking at my reference picture, the side panels are closed. The back panel cannot be seen, but I will fix that in the open position for a bit of visual interest.

Although it is quite difficult to make out (at least for me), I'm not totally convinced that it is a Heavy Type A field generator in the picture (in the first post for this project). Looking for other images of generators on the internet it is quite clear that there was some variation in the design of the field generators.
But even considering these variations, in this case it might very well be that it is not a field generator in the picture but a battery charger Type D.
For this project I will stick with the generator though, as there is no kit of a battery charger type D to my knowledge and because (although it might not be exactly like in the image) it is still a plausible setup as can be seen in these other images.

My intention is to build the model as far as it goes before committing to paint. I'll probably leave the wheels off to facilitate the painting and weathering of the wheelarches.

At the first building step I already encountered a minor problem. Part no. 2, the frame of the trailer was slightly bent. Nothing a bit of hot water and some friendly persuasion can fix though.

I was hoping I might even get away with it without fixing the straightness of the part. But looking at the instructions and testfitting part no. 1 against the frame it was soon obvious that I needed to fix the bent frame.

This same part no. 1 also marked a classic case of learning by doing for me.
Trying to separate the part from the casting block just proved that a PE-sawblade was indispensable.
Stubborn as I am I tried to separate the part with some friendly persuasion and side cutters from the casting block. Bad move as the part got slightly damaged.
Luckily this won't be visible when the model is finished, but it annoys me nevertheless. I'll probably try to fill the gaps before painting.
Apart from that I noticed a few holes / air bubbles on the underside of the part, so that filler will come in handy anyway.

At the moment I have all parts belonging to building step 7 separated from their casting blocks.
Some small defects here and there I've noticed (like a hinge that's missing), but nothing too serious.
A dryfit shows that the fit of the parts is actually quite good.

Next step will be to glue the parts together.
Problem is that it would seem that the two types of CA glue I have (Zap thin and medium) aren't strong enough to bond the parts, so I'll be going for the 2-part epoxy to see if that will get the job done.

That will be for the next update though.

Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany.

The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th.

Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs.

The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high.

During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques.
I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques.

For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting.

It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers.
Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le Mans pit stop on …

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 2)

In the previous post I already mentioned that the moulds had seen better days as this is quite an old kit (original moulds seem to be from 2000/2001).
A direct result of the age of the moulds is the fact that the kit is based on the early version of the C5-R, more precisely on chassis no.'s C5R-001 to C5R-004.

The version of the car that can be build from this kit is the Le Mans 2003 version, being either chassis no. C5R-008 or C5R-009.

I found a lot of useful information on the C5-R on the this site.

I tried to highlight some (but not all) differences between the different versions of the C5-R below.

As can be seen are there quite a few challenges ahead if you want to build your Corvette as it raced at the 2003 Le Mans event.
I will try to rectify the most obvious differences, but won't be taking on all of them.
My original list of modifications was looking like this:
close the naca ducts (2).removing the louvres of the radiator outlet (3).increasing the radiator outlet open…

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 9)

Getting there
The drama with the tires finally seems to have come to an end.
My suspicion that the aggressive solvent-based clearcoat triggered some sort of reaction with either the water-based clearcoat and or the material of the tires appears to be true.
My options were rather limited, so I decided to spray a new water-based clearcoat over the tires, hoping to cover the previous layer of clear and stop the reaction.
For 3 of the 4 tires one layer of clear was enough.
The rear tire with the most problems received 2 layers and that seems to do the trick. Even after more than a week of drying the clear stays flat.

The clearcoat I used was my own Revell Aqua Color mix as used previously. But this time thinned with it's dedicated thinner and applied by airbrush.
Although the image above does little to hide the imperfections I'm happy I finally am able to finish this chapter so I can divert my attention again towards the rest of the kit.

Work has finally continued on the body.