Skip to main content

Aston Martin DBS "James Bond" (Tamiya 1/24) - part 2

Moving on steadily I first studied the instructions and stills from the Casino Royale movie to see if there are differences between (the instructions of) the kit and the real car.

Luckily there don't seem to be that many differences. The few I found are listed below.

The diffuser and the 2 front lips on the bumper appear to be made of carbon fibre on the production version.
In the promotional image for "Casino Royale" it is clear to see that the front lips are made of carbon fibre.
For the production version the mounts for the rear view mirrors also seem to be made of carbon fibre. Looking at the image below I'd say Bond's car didn't have this.

So the plan is to go for carbon fibre for the diffuser and front lips and follow Tamiya's instructions for the mirror mounts.

In the instructions from Tamiya I noticed that the vents in the hood should be painted (semi-gloss) black.
But all images I found on the internet and the stills from the movie showed that these vents were painted in the same colour as the body.
The grills in the front and rear bumpers do appear to be black though.
As can clearly be seen in the image above.
So that's what I'll be aiming for.

Looking at the instructions I must admit that Tamiya has put a lot of thought into the incorporation of the PE parts into the build.
Little mounting pegs are already provided for fitting the PE parts. Very convenient indeed.
And the solution for the the two bigger vents in the hood is just brilliant. The vents need to be (almost) flush with the surface of the hood. To achieve this Tamiya provided clear plastic inserts which provide a tiny ridge on which to mount the PE parts... Brilliant.

I was hoping to survive this build without the use of putty or filler.
Sadly the kit has been moulded with parking sensors in the front and rear bumpers. As James Bond is a certified übermensch he has no need for that kind of silly equipment... So the indents depicting the parking sensors will have to be filled.

First I did a little test fit of the body and front bumper to see if the main body could be painted as complete as possible. Luckily that's the case.

When studying the floor of the car I noticed that it has lots of ejector pin marks.
To check whether these needed to be filled I did a quick testfit of the interior and some of the engine parts.
To my delight none of the marks will be visible after everything is put together, so I won't have to fill any of these. Another example of the thought that has gone into this kit.

Some things can't be avoided however. The body features some mould lines (green arrows in the right image above) along the front and rear fenders. I'll be scraping/sanding these flush before I move on to the primer.

I already started to group the different parts by their colour to easy the painting process which will be the next step.

The next update will follow shortly, so don't stay away too long.


Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany. The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th. Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs. The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high. During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques. I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques. For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting. It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers. Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le M

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 17)

The interior has finally been finished. Not without a few hiccups. I really wonder who decided on the building order... At the end of the instructions you're asked to mount the rear ARB. This sits on top of the rollcage and connects to the rear upper suspension arms. For some reason though Revell has you attach the fuel cell/oil cooling ducts (at least I think they are) in step 11. And in the final step (19, for the interior that is) you're required to glue the rear ARB in place. To get this in place you must twist and turn the ARB part in between the cooling ducts and the roll cage. A bit fiddly, but it can be done. It could have been done a lot easier though. A good lesson to never trust the building instructions, although in the end all came good. With all the fiddling and fumbling around, paint has chipped off in several places due to the handling and/or the glue. So before closing everything up I will have to wield the airbrush for a final time and respray a few det

Citroën Xsara WRC - Francois Duval, ADAC Rallye Deutschland 2007 (part 5)

As promised in the previous part in this update I'll show what I changed on the roll cage. The roll cage as included in the kit is far from complete. When looking at on-board footage and reference images found on the internet the roll cage needs some extra tubing added.  Over the years the roll cage of the Xsara WRC has had several variants as I've noticed studying my reference images. Which isn't that strange as the crash test and safety regulations have changed over the years.  The reference images I have of the specific chassis (#28) which Duval raced during the 2007 ADAC Rallye Deutschland are sadly inconclusive about which version of the roll cage was fitted. Which means that the adaptations I made are at best a good "guesstimate"... As long as it looks and feels right, it is right I guess... I used Evergreen styrene rod of 1.6 mm in diameter for the added sections for the rollcage.  The added sections are highlighted in the images below. Another section I&#