Skip to main content

Leuchtfeuer/Funkfeuer dio (part 4 - Start of the Opel Blitz radio car)

After the relatively slow start with the all-resin generator I was ready for something made of a more familiar material.
Next up for this diorama will be the Italeri kit no. 368 of the "Opel Blitz Einheitskoffer Field Radio Truck".
Upon opening the box I found all the parts (and instructions) grouped together in one plastic bag.
This, sadly, included the clear parts.
Luckily they didn't seem to have suffered. Nevertheless I immediately packed the clear parts away in a seperate plastic bag.
The kit contains 168 brown polystyrene parts (of which 4 parts aren't used in this version) spread over 3 sprues and 13 clear parts.
A first inspection of the parts shows good detail and some very delicate and small parts.
A closer inspection reveals some minor flash, which won't be too hard to deal with.
Some parts also show some mould offset, but untill now nothing too dramatic.
The plastic used by Italeri seems quite soft compared to what I'm used to (Tamiya and Revell mostly).
When removing and cleaning the parts from the trees I had to be very careful especially when handling the smaller parts.

The wheels look quite nice.
Although, and this is especially the case with the double rear wheels, there are some very prominent ejector pin marks which will be quite visible on the finished model.
I'm still contemplating if I should go for some resin replacement wheels or if I try to make do with the kit wheels (slightly altered).
On the front wheels there's also a peculiarity. The insert for the wheel hub doesn't quite match the insert visible in the box art.
Another point in favour of replacement wheels. But as the car will be quite obscured by camouflage nets and other objects it probably won't be so obvious. So I might as well stick with the kit wheels and save me some money.

The wheels aren't the only difference between the boxart and the instructions/parts.
In building step 10, 8 parts (steps to get on top op the Einheitskoffer?) need to be glued to the front of the Einheitskoffer. But on the boxart, these parts aren't present. And when looking at some images of the Opel Blitz with Einheitskoffer (4th picture on the page) they're missing there too.
On the same site I found a page concerning the so-called LC-Koffer where some steps are clearly visible.
The drawing on this site is the only version with steps I've found.

Looking closely at my original images I'd say that "my" Opel did have these steps. 
But I'm not sure if I should use the kit parts. For some strange reason the steps stick out over the sides, which I think is rather strange.
The instructions do confirm that it should be mounted like this, but looking at my reference images and the aforementioned site the steps seem to be flush with the sides of the LC-Koffer.
I will drill some new holes using the original ones in the front wall and make my own steps from wire.
I used 0.8 mm steel wire to fabricate some new steps using my Hold & Fold folding tool.
Luckily, one of the shapes on the folding tool had the right width, so I could quickly fabricate the desired 8 steps.
The original holes were filled with 0.75 mm styrene rod from Evergreen. Things need to be smoothed out with some putty. But I will do that after I drilled the new holes for the steps.
Which I did, in the meantime, with a 0.8 mm drill bit.


This will be a nice and easy upgrade for the kit parts.

I haven't forgotten about the field generator. With the weather providing more bearable temperatures in the attic, work will continue on the field generator (and other on-going projects) shortly.

Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany.

The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th.

Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs.

The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high.

During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques.
I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques.

For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting.

It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers.
Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le Mans pit stop on …

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 2)

In the previous post I already mentioned that the moulds had seen better days as this is quite an old kit (original moulds seem to be from 2000/2001).
A direct result of the age of the moulds is the fact that the kit is based on the early version of the C5-R, more precisely on chassis no.'s C5R-001 to C5R-004.

The version of the car that can be build from this kit is the Le Mans 2003 version, being either chassis no. C5R-008 or C5R-009.

I found a lot of useful information on the C5-R on the this site.

I tried to highlight some (but not all) differences between the different versions of the C5-R below.

As can be seen are there quite a few challenges ahead if you want to build your Corvette as it raced at the 2003 Le Mans event.
I will try to rectify the most obvious differences, but won't be taking on all of them.
My original list of modifications was looking like this:
close the naca ducts (2).removing the louvres of the radiator outlet (3).increasing the radiator outlet open…

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 9)

Getting there
The drama with the tires finally seems to have come to an end.
My suspicion that the aggressive solvent-based clearcoat triggered some sort of reaction with either the water-based clearcoat and or the material of the tires appears to be true.
My options were rather limited, so I decided to spray a new water-based clearcoat over the tires, hoping to cover the previous layer of clear and stop the reaction.
For 3 of the 4 tires one layer of clear was enough.
The rear tire with the most problems received 2 layers and that seems to do the trick. Even after more than a week of drying the clear stays flat.


The clearcoat I used was my own Revell Aqua Color mix as used previously. But this time thinned with it's dedicated thinner and applied by airbrush.
Although the image above does little to hide the imperfections I'm happy I finally am able to finish this chapter so I can divert my attention again towards the rest of the kit.

Work has finally continued on the body.
S…