Skip to main content

3D printing - What a difference a setting makes...

Since the first excursion into 3D printing left me with a bit of mixed feelings, I haven't been doing a lot with my Anycubic Photon 3D printer lately.

When I was drawing up a part for the Aston Martin DBS I'm currently working on I thought I might as well give the Motegi wheel for the Ferrari F458 GT2 (my first project on the Anycubic) another go.
As I was convinced that the part I drew in OnShape shouldn't pose a problem for it.

I adapted the 3D model a bit to prevent the resin liquid from pooling up in smaller areas hoping that this would fix the issue of residue clogging the said areas as happened with my first attempt.

I also played around with the settings, giving the respective layers a longer exposure time.
Where I used the blue framed settings for the first print, I opted for the red framed one this time.

The values are taken from a public document available on the internet where people can contribute their settings.

And boy did that work.
Okay. Maybe it was a combination of room temperature and exposure time. I'm not sure. But I'll definitely be using these setting again for future prints.

I'm completely astonished at how good this print turned out. No flash, no residue, just a nearly perfect wheel. Below are pictures of the first attempt (left) and the second attempt (right)

As can be seen on the right image, the spokes are now open and not the tiniest bit of residue in sight. I'm going to print this wheel again, this time with the spokes closed again.
The other thing I'm going to change is the wheel nut. I'll be printing the wheel without the nut and will print the nut separately. I'm going to redesign the nut slightly to give it some more detail. This will come at the sacrifice of realism, but I think that won't be such a drama.

All this gives me confidence to try and print some more parts in the near future.


Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany. The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th. Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs. The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high. During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques. I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques. For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting. It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers. Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le M

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 17)

The interior has finally been finished. Not without a few hiccups. I really wonder who decided on the building order... At the end of the instructions you're asked to mount the rear ARB. This sits on top of the rollcage and connects to the rear upper suspension arms. For some reason though Revell has you attach the fuel cell/oil cooling ducts (at least I think they are) in step 11. And in the final step (19, for the interior that is) you're required to glue the rear ARB in place. To get this in place you must twist and turn the ARB part in between the cooling ducts and the roll cage. A bit fiddly, but it can be done. It could have been done a lot easier though. A good lesson to never trust the building instructions, although in the end all came good. With all the fiddling and fumbling around, paint has chipped off in several places due to the handling and/or the glue. So before closing everything up I will have to wield the airbrush for a final time and respray a few det

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 2)

In the previous post I already mentioned that the moulds had seen better days as this is quite an old kit (original moulds seem to be from 2000/2001). A direct result of the age of the moulds is the fact that the kit is based on the early version of the C5-R, more precisely on chassis no.'s C5R-001 to C5R-004. The version of the car that can be build from this kit is the Le Mans 2003 version, being either chassis no. C5R-008 or C5R-009. I found a lot of useful information on the C5-R on the this site. I tried to highlight some (but not all) differences between the different versions of the C5-R below. As can be seen are there quite a few challenges ahead if you want to build your Corvette as it raced at the 2003 Le Mans event. I will try to rectify the most obvious differences, but won't be taking on all of them. My original list of modifications was looking like this: close the naca ducts (2). removing the louvres of the radiator outlet (3). increasing the ra