Skip to main content

Benetton Ford B190B, F1 season 1991 (part 3)

Primer approach
As can be seen in the previous update, the fitment of (especially) the rear bodywork left something to be desired. Below are several pictures displaying how I have tackled that problem.
First picture shows a spacing bar in the front of the body. This was necessary because I'd removed the mounting pins from the nosecone. And to get the sidewalls of the nosecone and the bodywork properly aligned I chose this solution.
On top of that I glued in a small piece of styrene to the bottom of the body to prevent the possibility of looking through the car as the bottom didn't close up this area enough in my opinion.
The second picture shows the styrene strips I glued to the front part of the sidepods.
The third picture shows the rear bodywork and a few styrene strips I glued onto the bodywork, to push the bottom parts to the outside, when fitted over the front bodywork.
In the fourth picture the result of the modifications can be seen.

As can be seen from the last picture above, the alignment between the rollover bar and the rear bodywork isn't good.
I tried to solve it by removing and re-attaching the rollover bar. But if I'd moved it any further than I did it could be seen too easily (that the car wasn't symmetric anymore).
But moving the rollover bar wasn't enough however. The problem lies with the rear bodywork which seems to be deformed. I wasn't convinced that I could bend it to shape, so I decided to glue the rear bodywork to the car.
This means that the engine and radiators won't be visible after building. So I won't be detailing them as a result.
Below are several pictures of the car with the rear bodywork glued on.
It wasn't as simpel as glueing it on however. I did have quite some sanding to do, to get the alignment correct.
I must admit that it isn't perfect by a long shot, but I think it is satisfactory.
The following pictures show the progress so far.

The first picture shows the front bodywork with some additional styrene so the rear bodywork can be glued to the front bodywork easily.
The second picture is a picture from the front of the car showing the rollover bar (and the fact that is sits slightly to one side).
The third picture shows the rear bodywork glued to the front. Front and rear bodywork are dryfitted onto the undertray. A slight opening is visible here (also on the opposite side) and will have to be closed. For the I glued a piece of styrene to the bodywork and sanded it flush with the undertray.
The fourth picture shows the result of this.
The fifth picture shows the left side of the airbox which had to be smoothed out after the airbox had been sanded flush with rollover hoop.

There are only some slight repairs left to be done and than the primer can be sprayed onto the car.
Find out more about this in the next update.


Popular posts from this blog

Euro Model Expo 2015

Last weekend I went to the Euro Model Expo event in Heiden, Germany. The event was spread over 2 days. I visited on the first day, Saturday March 28th. Just like last year the location was packed with stands occupied by a good mix of vendors and modelling clubs. The quality of the models on show, it being on the club stands or the competition area, was once again very high. During the day members of the Belgian modelling club KMK-Scaleworld were giving demonstrations of several modelling techniques. I decided to visit the demonstration of Jeroen Veen who showed the public several aircraft painting and weathering techniques. For me, as a n00b on aircraft, it was a very interesting and entertaining demonstration and I hope to apply some of the techniques I saw to my coming build of the 1/48 Tamiya Lancaster I got waiting. It was also a nice occassion to talk to some fellow modellers. Amongst others I had a nice chat with Sascha Müller who had a stunning diorama of a Le M

Corvette C5-R Compuware (part 17)

The interior has finally been finished. Not without a few hiccups. I really wonder who decided on the building order... At the end of the instructions you're asked to mount the rear ARB. This sits on top of the rollcage and connects to the rear upper suspension arms. For some reason though Revell has you attach the fuel cell/oil cooling ducts (at least I think they are) in step 11. And in the final step (19, for the interior that is) you're required to glue the rear ARB in place. To get this in place you must twist and turn the ARB part in between the cooling ducts and the roll cage. A bit fiddly, but it can be done. It could have been done a lot easier though. A good lesson to never trust the building instructions, although in the end all came good. With all the fiddling and fumbling around, paint has chipped off in several places due to the handling and/or the glue. So before closing everything up I will have to wield the airbrush for a final time and respray a few det

Citroën Xsara WRC - Francois Duval, ADAC Rallye Deutschland 2007 (part 5)

As promised in the previous part in this update I'll show what I changed on the roll cage. The roll cage as included in the kit is far from complete. When looking at on-board footage and reference images found on the internet the roll cage needs some extra tubing added.  Over the years the roll cage of the Xsara WRC has had several variants as I've noticed studying my reference images. Which isn't that strange as the crash test and safety regulations have changed over the years.  The reference images I have of the specific chassis (#28) which Duval raced during the 2007 ADAC Rallye Deutschland are sadly inconclusive about which version of the roll cage was fitted. Which means that the adaptations I made are at best a good "guesstimate"... As long as it looks and feels right, it is right I guess... I used Evergreen styrene rod of 1.6 mm in diameter for the added sections for the rollcage.  The added sections are highlighted in the images below. Another section I&#